Fine dining, tailgating at Montpelier Hunt Races

One of the Piedmont’s world-renowned fine dining chefs heads to the horse races this weekend to rate down-home fare that’s oft times served from the back of a pickup truck.

Patrick O’Connell, longtime chef and proprietor of the five-star Inn at Little Washington in Rappahannock County, serves as “celebrity tailgate judge” for today’s Montpelier Hunt Races at James Madison’s Orange County estate.

He told the Star-Exponent earlier this week the folks at Montpelier have been trying to get him to do it for years.

“I thought it would be a great opportunity to slip away on a Saturday and offer what I could to such a beneficial cause,” said O’Connell, crowned “Pope of American Cuisine” by the late vintner Robert Mondavi.

The day’s duties will have O’Connell evaluating entries in the Dolley Madison Tailgate Competition, starting at 10:30 a.m. He said he plans to be back at the Inn for Saturday night service.

“Food is food,” said O’Connell, asked about making the switch from fine dining to tailgating. “Good food is good food and bad food is bad food. It’s all the same criteria I use every day.”

Entirely self-taught, the chef and author said he’d look for creative entries exhibiting “clarity and balance” in today’s competition while also recognizing the “constraints” of preparing food suitable for transport.

“Not everything works,” O’Connell said of selecting foods that won’t suffer at room temperature. “The first mistake is inappropriate selection.”

Laughing, he said he’d “never in his life” been tailgating, let alone to the horse races. O’Connell added that he was excited about the new experience.

“I always suggest to the home cook: first, evaluate (your dish) with a blindfold on. See how it feels and tastes in the mouth and don’t be overly swayed by the presentation.”

Avid tailgaters, especially in Virginia, know that presentation counts — think fine silver, crystal and linens — but according to O’Connell, looks are certainly not everything.

In fact, he said, presentation “often compromises actual taste” — taste is what he said counts most, regardless of where the food is prepared or served.

“The wonderful thing about home cooking is when you use tried and true recipes because it is a real window into family history,” O’Connell said. “And that is very charming.”

Martha Strawther, executive director of the Montpelier Steeplechase and Equestrian Foundation, lauded O’Connell for his “exquisite taste and attention to detail.”

“We are certain contest participants will delight in the chance to visit with him one on one,” she said.

The Piedmont Virginian magazine is sponsoring the tailgating competition.

Top prizes include a one-night stay and dinner at O’Connell’s lavish Inn, the first establishment to receive five stars for its restaurants and accommodations from Mobil Travel Guide.

Among the Inn’s many other accolades is its rating by The International Herald Tribune as one of the Top 10 Best Restaurants in the World.

Today’s event marks the 75th running of the Montpelier Hunt Races. Former Montpelier residents Marion duPont Scott and her brother William duPont Jr. founded the races on their front lawn in 1934.